Katnaghbyur - Hartashen / TransCaucasian Trail / Day 38 / Armenia

𝐊𝐚𝐭𝐧𝐚𝐠𝐡𝐛𝐲𝐮𝐫 𝐭𝐨 𝐇𝐚𝐫𝐭𝐚𝐬𝐡𝐞𝐧 is one of the most challenging sections of the Transcaucasian Trail in Armenia. It's a long hike through the Bazumi mountain range, offering stunning views of the Shirak Plateau. Along the way, you'll catch sight of Urasar Mountain and the distant Javakhq mountains to the right.

𝐑𝐞𝐜𝐨𝐦𝐦𝐞𝐧𝐝𝐞𝐝 𝐟𝐨𝐫: Hikers who want to explore the Transcaucasian Trail ( Տրանսկովկասյան արահետ ), and those seeking a long, challenging hike through the mountains of the Shirak region who are not afraid of encountering shepherd dogs along the way.

◤ Description of the Trail

𝑁𝑜𝑡𝑒: The trail is not blazed, meaning there are no marks, signposts, or directional arrows. You will need a GPS and should be prepared to navigate on your own throughout the hike.
Pay close attention to to the marks on the map, as I’ve tried to include all the necessary navigation points in the waypoints to make it easier to orient yourself.

--- Starting from Katnaghbyur village, the first kilometer alternates between jeep tracks and footpaths. After about 3 kilometers, the jeep track becomes more clearly defined.

--- The trail is quite smooth up until 11.2 km, where we meet Armenian shepherds. After this point, you turn right, and the trail becomes more challenging until reaching the Yezidi shepherds' farm at 16.8 km. You gain about 400 meters in altitude over the 5.5 km distance.

--- After 16.8 km, the trail becomes smoother and less challenging. At 19.7 km, we reach the highest point of the trek, with an elevation of 2343 meters.

--- At 22.7 km, the navigation directs us to the left, leading us onto an overgrown footpath for about 1.5 km, until we reach the Yezidi farms at 24.1 km. I’m unsure why this was selected as the main trail, but if I were to go again, I’d choose to continue along the jeep track instead of turning left here. I’d take the next left turn, following the jeep track, not the footpath.

--- After reaching 26.2 km, there is no defined route or jeep track. Be careful with navigation, as a narrow path leads down for about 6 km. However, this path is overgrown and indistinct in most areas. This is the most confusing part of the trail.

--- You start to lose altitude after 28.5 km of the trail.

--- You join the jeep track at 31.9 km, for the last 1.5 km of the trail.

--- We hiked the trail in early July and crossed the river about 8 times. Half of these crossings required us to remove our shoes. Be cautious if hiking earlier in the season, as the rivers can be flooded, making crossings more difficult.

--- Throughout the hike, we encountered many dogs. I’ve noted the exact locations where you can expect to meet them in the waypoints on the map: 6 km, 6.2 km, 8.2 km, 11.2 km, 16.8 km, 17 km, 20.7 km, 21.1 km, 21.2 km, 22 km, 24.1 km, and 24.4 km. The most dangerous dogs were at 11.2 km, 17 km, and 24.1 km.

This trail is 𝐧𝐨𝐭 𝐜𝐡𝐢𝐥𝐝-𝐟𝐫𝐢𝐞𝐧𝐝𝐥𝐲; it's too wild and full of shepherd dogs.

◤ 𝐈𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐬 𝐭𝐫𝐚𝐢𝐥 𝐝𝐚𝐧𝐠𝐞𝐫𝐨𝐮𝐬 ?

𝐓𝐡𝐢𝐬 𝐢𝐬 𝐨𝐧𝐞 𝐨𝐟 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐭𝐨𝐮𝐠𝐡𝐞𝐬𝐭 𝐬𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐓𝐫𝐚𝐧𝐬𝐜𝐚𝐮𝐜𝐚𝐬𝐢𝐚𝐧 𝐓𝐫𝐚𝐢𝐥 𝐫𝐞𝐠𝐚𝐫𝐝𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐝𝐨𝐠𝐬.
This area is home to large shepherd dogs, such as Alabay, Armenian Gampr, and Caucasian Shepherds. These dogs can be aggressive and may attack, even if you’re not close to their territory or tents. While some may just bark, there are others that can be risky. Be cautious and pass through these areas quickly, but never run.

If you encounter potentially aggressive dogs, try to spot any shepherds from a distance and wave to them (avoid shouting, as this might alert the dogs first). The shepherds will usually call the dogs back or hold them. If the dogs come too close and act aggressively, stand still and try to find a shepherd nearby to signal for help. Carry food with you to throw to the dogs (they will eat most foods except fruits and vegetables; it’s advisable to bring plenty of bread).
If there is no one around and only dogs are present, try to leave their territory carefully—never run or turn your back on them. Sometimes the trail passes near their tent, so it's better to veer off the main path and make a small detour to avoid getting too close to the dogs.

◤ Which direction to go ?

Is it better to hike from Katnaghbyur to Hartashen, or from Hartashen to Meghri?
If you plan to complete the entire TransCaucasian Trail of Armenia, you'll need to decide whether to start from the south or the north. Since I began my TCT journey from the south, I hiked from Katnaghbyur to Hartashen.
However, if you're only hiking this section and don't intend to continue the full trail, I recommend starting from Hartashen and heading towards Katnaghbyur. When starting from Katnaghbyur, you gain 1190 meters of elevation and lose 786 meters, making it much more challenging. Hiking the opposite direction is significantly easier due to the reduced altitude gain (400 m difference).

◤ Can I divide this trail into a 2-day hike?

If you're a backpacker carrying all your gear, you can split the trail into two days. The hike is quite challenging for a single day, especially with a heavy backpack. However, if you prefer staying in guesthouses and hiking with lighter gear, be aware that there are no villages or accommodations nearby. In that case, you'll need to complete the hike in one day.


◤ Can I shorten the trail by car?

No, you can’t. The trail begins as a footpath, and only the first 10 km are somewhat accessible to 4x4 vehicles. After that, the jeep track becomes very rough, with alternative paths used by farmers for access to their lands. Many local farmers can reach even the most remote sections with their UAZ vehicles, as they are very familiar with the area.After 26 km, the trail transitions into a footpath, and only at 32 km, you will reconnect with a jeep track heading toward Hartashen.


≋ Water Sources

You can find drinking water at all the farms along the trail. Shepherds are usually friendly and happy to help.
While there are small streams along the trail, it's recommended to carry a water filter (The destinations of the water streams are indicated in the waypoints ).

∝FAUNA

The area is relatively wild, but the presence of shepherd dogs makes it safer, despite the fact that they can be more dangerous to hikers than any other animals in the area. While there are few chances of encountering venomous snakes, wolves typically avoid these areas due to the large number of shepherd dogs, which is one of the main reasons shepherds keep them.

◤ When to Go?

▶ Doable:
The trail is accessible from mid-May to November. Outside of these months, temperatures can become uncomfortable. The trail is usually covered in snow from mid-November to mid May, depending on the season.

▶ Recommended:
The best time to visit is during the summer months and the first half of fall. June offers cool, spring-like temperatures, while after mid-August, it can become drier. From mid-June to late July, you'll experience lush greenery, vibrant flowers, and comfortable temperatures. From mid-August to mid-October, the landscape turns golden, and there are fewer dogs on the trails.

▶ Not Recommended:
After November, the weather can get very cold, with snow conditions typically beginning in December and lasting until May.

◤ Where to Stay?

We couldn't find any accommodation in Hartashen village, so you'll need to arrange a ride to nearby villages or Gyumri (25 km drive) for the night.
Below are the addresses of accommodations I found in nearby villages.. ↴

𝑉𝑎𝑟𝑑𝑎𝑔ℎ𝑏𝑦𝑢𝑟 𝑣𝑖𝑙𝑙𝑎𝑔𝑒

5 km from Hartashen
Herbs & Honey Hotel
Contact: +37477136160 / +37498929202

𝑀𝑒𝑡𝑠 𝑆𝑒𝑝𝑎𝑠𝑎𝑟 𝑣𝑖𝑙𝑙𝑎𝑔𝑒

9 km from Hartashen
Mets Sepasar guesthouse
Contact number: +37494833190

If you happen to find any reliable accommodation options closer to Hartashen, please let me know so I can update the information for other hikers. If you stay at any of the mentioned places, I would appreciate your feedback, as I haven’t had the chance to visit them yet.

*𝐼𝑛𝑡𝑒𝑙𝑙𝑒𝑐𝑡𝑢𝑎𝑙 𝑃𝑟𝑜𝑝𝑒𝑟𝑡𝑦 𝑁𝑜𝑡𝑖𝑐𝑒:
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