Krzy

Temps en mouvement  6 hours 15 minutes

Durée  8 hours 25 minutes

Coordonnées 4581

Publié 23 juin 2018

Recorded juin 2018

  • Rating

     
  • Information

     
  • Easy to follow

     
  • Scenery

     
-
-
2 615 m
1 853 m
0
6,6
13
26,21 km

Vu 363 fois, téléchargé 14 fois

près de Hetaoyuan, Yunnan (China)

Tiger leaping gorge, one day hike at higher path including return hike along the road.

I stayed at the Tina's Guesthouse. Tina's guesthouse is located along the main road and easily accessible by car It has a decent size car park which also is serving as a bus stop to daily buses taking backpackers between Tina's and Lijiang.
We have arrived at Tina's by car late evening one day before. The drive through the winding unprotected road was a bit scary and we saw few wrecks down the cliff. Signs of fresh landslides partially blocking the road in few locations further raised our hair. On the other hand, views are totally worth it - just drive slow.

I started the hike before the sunrise. Entrance to the trail is just in front of the guesthouse. The path starts steep with a few hundred meters climb. Once you reach the actual train it is very leveled and easy to walk, although in some areas the trail feels little dangerous: it becomes quite narrow in few places, there is one or two waterfalls you need to cross which make the narrow path slippery. You are constantly walking along a steep cliff, but as long as you are careful and don't slip it is not really dangerous. I have seen families with young kids doing the hike.

After about 3.5 hours of vigorous walking i reached my lunch breakfast destination: The Tea Horse Guesthouse. It is more likely to take average hiker 4h or more to make this section, especially if one would take some breaks.

Along this first section I only encountered one group of 3 girls and one Sheppard with a heard of about 30 sheep. After rather long and slow breakfast I set off.

After Tea Horse the road started to climb up a bit all the way to the top of 28 bends. This 1.5h climb takes the path through some forests that are home to the most densely populated colonies of mosquito i have ever encountered. And those mosquitoes are hungry and not going to leave you for hours. I have picked a short twig and kept fanning and smacking my self rhythmically at every step to keep a misquote free breathing zone in front of my face. Honestly this was something i was not prepared for.

At this point forest has cleared out and I have reached to highest point of the hike - to top of the 28 bends. There is a nice viewing rock here, however it is closed with a piece of timber plank. At this point there was a small stand where one local lady was selling fruits, drinks and local ganja. She advised me not to enter the viewing platform as its dangerous, but i still did although i did not dare to go to the edge. It is a spectacular view both directions of the gorge, but it is also a wedge shaped rock projecting away from the mountain, and its edges are vertical drops of few hundred meters. Due to its shape winds are very strong , the width of the rock is quite narrow but it projects quite far and at some point there is nothing to hold on to. All in all it is a little nerve wrecking spot, and i am not surprised there was a plank closing it.

From that point 28 bends have started and also have the crowds. Walking from Tina's to this point apart from one billion of starving mosquito I literally met only handful of people. Except walking short sections of the hike on a dirt roads when crossing villages, the path was actually rather small, wild and natural.
In the next hour or so of my descent however i encounter around 10 western tourists hiking up in couples of alone. I have also unfortunately encounter at lest several groups of mainly Chinese tourists being hoisted up the stair on horses lead by the local guides. Although the 28 bends path is made of concrete, it is still very narrow and only one horse can fit at a time. Those horses are quite easy to get scared and i have to say it doesn't look safe to me at all to be riding them. When met with the first group i have tried to walk by the horse but it got scared and did few rather jerky steps which really freaked me out as in case this horse would loose its grip it would not only got itself rolling down the cliff to its death but also take a tourist riding it with it. From that point i always let the path to horses and stepped away to let them pass - which was quite frustrating as it seemed there is no end to them.

At the bottom of 28 bends there is a Naxi Guesthouse. I have walked into its premises for a moment. It has very nice flowery courtyard and is also accessible by road if you would ever want to stay here. At this point i had a choice to either hike along the path all the way to Qiaotou or descent down to the road along the river and start walking back.
At the end i decided to walk down, which was to my surprise much longer descent than i was expecting. Walking down on concrete steep road was quite hard to the knees. There is also some construction site of some sort as at least several concrete mixer trucks pass by on this narrow road. Looking backwards i think it would be more fun to carry on along the train all the way back to town and take a taxi back instead.

Eventually i reached the main road at the lower area of the gorge and walked along it heading back to Tina. Once crossed the main scenic spot and the tuner there was very little traffic and the walk was quite nice. There is some old path circumnavigating the tunnel, but after about 50m its section has fell down the cliff and it is no longer safe to cross. Also it is completely cut off from reaching the road on the other side of the tunnel - so stay away from it and just walk through the tunnel instead.

After about 8km or so walking along the road and after about 27km of total walking i had a call with my friend who stayed in the Tina's guesthouse for the day and we decided to drive to another scenic spot 70km north. As i still had about 8km to walk i have decided to hitch hike. I let few of the local mini-vans pass and raised my thumb up on the first civilian looking car - which has stopped for me. It was the fasted hitch hiking success in my life.c Not sure if i was lucky or its a norm here - but i was super happy to find a kind people who helped me get back to my guesthouse faster. It was a family of 4 traveling all the way from Chengdu. 15 minutes later i was back at Tina's.

8 commentaires

  • sebez_93sebez 3 janv. 2019

    Hello krzy
    4 questions:
    1- What time did you leave the Guesthouse ??
    2- do you think it is possible to return at tina's for the 3:30 bus to lijiang ? (return by car from the main road like you just at the tunnel) take your level to answer (how old are you ?)
    3- how do you reach the guest the day before, by private car ?? From lijiang ? Is it possible by bus ?
    4- do you have the e-mail adress of Tina ??
    Regards and happy New year

  • Photo de Krzy

    Krzy 3 janv. 2019

    Hi Sebez
    Happy New Year to you as well.
    1. I started recording GPS trail at 6:51am. I woke up when it was still darkish outside, but it left when it was already bright as you can see on photos. If you are there in June as well, you might be able to leave even 45 minutes earlier i think. In January the day is shorter over 2h so might need to wait a little.
    2. I have reached the tunnel at 2:30pm. If you match my speed you would have still one hour to drive back to the hostel to catch the bus. I have spend over 45 minutes eating breakfast at the TeaHorse where you could definitely save some time if you would want to. For the rest of the hike it felt to me that I was pretty much constantly on the move except 20 minutes stop at the top, short detour to see Naxi, and few rather short snack / photo stops. You could skip Naxi but the rest of the hike i think would be hard to save a lot of time, unless you could walk faster.
    You can see more details of this hike on Strava https://www.strava.com/activities/1656675168
    I am 37 and rather skinny. As a hiker - probably above average but definitely not an athlete. On that day i been using two hiking-poles which helped a lot when climbing and i also packed light. There are couple of climbs during the hike and I was able to keep scrambling up continuously without stopping to catch breath. From what i remember I was pushing myself to walk rather fast until breakfast (first 4h), but later i was quite chilled.
    If you think you might need more time you could ask at Tina to pick you up with the car at Naxi for example. They have a car and told me they could pick me up at the end of the trail for 100RMB.
    3. We reached Tina by rented Car. I have chinese driving license and rented a car for few days to drive around. There is a regular bus that links Lijiang with Tina but i dont know its schedule. You could check with Tina hostel directly.

    4. We have booked Tina on booking.com and so i don't have their email but i do have a phone number +86 187 6088 0888. I also have a Wechat ID of the english speaking gentleman who works there: zql921227052 I suggest use WeChat for any queries

    Few more things:
    5. The tunnel is where the main and the most popular scenic spot to experience the madness of the river. There is a ticket booth and staircase leading all the way down to the river. It takes about 45 minutes to see this spot. You could rush it in 30 minutes maybe. If you are able to reach the tunnel with some time left I would suggest you to go and see it.
    6. If you would be able to take an early bus and arrive at Tina early afternoon - you could perhaps hit the trail already on the first day and stay at TeaHorse. You would need 4h of daylight to walk from Tina to TeaHorse.
    7. You could consider reversing the trail and ask Tina's to drive you at the sunrise to

  • sebez_93sebez 4 janv. 2019

    Hello
    Thank you very much for all these precises informations !
    I'm 38 year old and i think i'm able to do the first way, i even thought leave the guest at 5:30 or 6 (with head lamp in worst case if it is black...😁)
    But I do not have any information on how to get there by bus so I do not know if I'll be able to do this treck ... In any case I keep the hike under the elbow 😉
    Many Thanks !

  • Photo de Krzy

    Krzy 6 janv. 2019

    Hi
    You can make bus reservation through Tina. Bus takes you from lijiang to Tina directly. First Install WeChat and than add them as your contact. You can find them using their WeChat ID: zlq921227052
    Hope that helps
    Krzy

  • Photo de patabrava29

    patabrava29 4 juil. 2019

    Hi, it's possible to do in october??

  • Photo de patabrava29

    patabrava29 4 juil. 2019

    Thanks

  • Photo de Krzy

    Krzy 5 juil. 2019

    Hi PataBrava

    yes its should be ok, weather should be warm as it's pretty far south and not very high altitude - but might be a little wet.
    When i was there in June there were few partially cleaned landslides on the lower road, during wet season you might have few more.

    read more about it here: http://www.yunnanadventure.com/city_list/Tiger-Leaping-Gorge-Weather-&-Climate_147_920.html

  • Photo de patabrava29

    patabrava29 5 juil. 2019

    Thanks, my friend

You can or this trail