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103,02 km
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près de El Chaltén, Santa Cruz (Argentina)
This is the big tour, in the Chaltén region, for those who want to escape the mad crowds, such those found at Laguna Torre or at the various Fitzroy campings and viewpoints. I did it clockwise, although I believe that the rule is to do it the other way. Let me point out two disadvantages of my choice, the second one being (at least for me) somewhat more serious than the first one:
A) the steep end somewhat slippery stretch from Paso Huemul to lago Viedma is tackled while descending;
B) the tirolesa at Laguna Toro has the rope anchored on the side of Cerro Huemul. If you approach it from that side, you are able to drag the wheel to you also if it is waiting on the other side. The converse is not true: for this reason I lost one day waiting at Laguna Toro. Lost so to say, because in any case the wind would have been too strong in the surroundings of Paso del Viento to have a comfortable walk. Of course the name of this pass has been set in a proper way.
The track features minor additions to the basic loop, which may of course be skipped, but which are very worthy:
1) a little summit above Paso del Viento, in direction Cerro Azara. Due to the bad weather, I did not insist in looking for higher viewpoints, let alone to try, on the other side, to go somewhere on Cerro Huemul;
2) panoramic detours on the rock nose close to Paso Huemul, dominating the front of the Viedma glacier;
3) panoramic detours on the saddle coming before the descent to Estancia Rio Tunel;
4) a final climb to the Lomo del Pliegue Tumbado. I had already been there the day before undertaking the present tour, but when I reached the path to the Lomo the weather was to perfect to descend to the village: so I went up again.
The loop reminds somewhat the classical O circuit in the Paine, with Paso del Viento in place of Paso John Garner. It is difficult to say which of the two is better.
I have published several panoramas connected to this loop:
Paso Huemul
Viedma wide view
Bahía Témpanos
Reminiscences of Patagonia
Moreover, there are the panoramas from the Loma del Pliegue Tumbado:
Cloudy Patagonia
Sunny Patagonia
The sky is always blue in Patagonia - II
A) the steep end somewhat slippery stretch from Paso Huemul to lago Viedma is tackled while descending;
B) the tirolesa at Laguna Toro has the rope anchored on the side of Cerro Huemul. If you approach it from that side, you are able to drag the wheel to you also if it is waiting on the other side. The converse is not true: for this reason I lost one day waiting at Laguna Toro. Lost so to say, because in any case the wind would have been too strong in the surroundings of Paso del Viento to have a comfortable walk. Of course the name of this pass has been set in a proper way.
The track features minor additions to the basic loop, which may of course be skipped, but which are very worthy:
1) a little summit above Paso del Viento, in direction Cerro Azara. Due to the bad weather, I did not insist in looking for higher viewpoints, let alone to try, on the other side, to go somewhere on Cerro Huemul;
2) panoramic detours on the rock nose close to Paso Huemul, dominating the front of the Viedma glacier;
3) panoramic detours on the saddle coming before the descent to Estancia Rio Tunel;
4) a final climb to the Lomo del Pliegue Tumbado. I had already been there the day before undertaking the present tour, but when I reached the path to the Lomo the weather was to perfect to descend to the village: so I went up again.
The loop reminds somewhat the classical O circuit in the Paine, with Paso del Viento in place of Paso John Garner. It is difficult to say which of the two is better.
I have published several panoramas connected to this loop:
Paso Huemul
Viedma wide view
Bahía Témpanos
Reminiscences of Patagonia
Moreover, there are the panoramas from the Loma del Pliegue Tumbado:
Cloudy Patagonia
Sunny Patagonia
The sky is always blue in Patagonia - II
Little summit that can be easily climbed from the pass.
The panorama can be found in original size on
Google.
Arbitrary waypoint, since actually you are taking panoramic views of the glacier all the time between the refuge and Paso Huemul
This is no official panoramic point, but I thought that descending down to here I could take better pictures of the glacier flowing into the lake. The terrain is easy and free of dangers.
For me, the most beautiful spot of the whole tour.
Paso Huemul is an enchanted location where you feel also very far from the crowds of El Chalten.
There are some flat places for tents among the bushes.
In few steps one reaches a wonderful viewpoint on the front of the glacier.
After a horizontal traverse, a steep descent begins. Very panoramic spot.
Lower down there are also some fixed ropes.
If, after the saddle, instead of heading town to Rio Tunel one walks to the hill on the right side, fantastic views will be provided.
The waypoint is set at the spot of the destroyed bridge. The river has to be crossed more downstream, where it has already split in three branches.
Here you meet the road to the little harbour from where the boats sail to the front of Glacier Viedma
17 commentaires
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Antucko 6 juil. 2016
Alucinante ! Must be a fantastic route. I will definitely hike this route when I am in El Chalten !! Thanks a lot to share !
Alberto Pedrotti 7 juil. 2016
Surely.
But, I imagine, not in this season!
Cheers, Alberto.
NIRGAL 17 sept. 2016
La ruta está muy bien explicada y presenta las características de travesía, lo que generalmente la gente busca en Patagonia
raygun 5 oct. 2016
Very helpful information to plan our 2017 April trip. Do you need to carry any rope for this trip? What are the essential gears other than climbing harness?
Alberto Pedrotti 7 oct. 2016
There is no real need for a rope. In the short stretch on the lower Rio Tunel glacier the crevasses are well in sight. If you find any different information, try to figure out the source: namely, in El Chaltén they rent every sort of climbing gear, and not for little money...
sudobringcookies 11 oct. 2016
Do you think we will need crampons if we do this tour in Dez. 2016? Thanks for your help!
Alberto Pedrotti 12 oct. 2016
You mean at the beginning of the season... I do not know, you should better ask when you register at the start of the path. Paso del Viento could well be partially snowbound.
Cheers, Alberto.
etienne masson 13 nov. 2016
Sounds great. Need to look a bit more into it
fdm24 17 oct. 2017
We were thinking of going upto the PASO DEL VIENTO and then faster return using the same path. Is worthwhile? We do not have too many days in El Chalten and we would like to use the other days to see something different. Another question, do you need to bring a tour guide for this route? Thanks a lot in advance.
Alberto Pedrotti 17 oct. 2017
Chaltén - Rio Túnel - Paso del Viento? I think that it is a bit reductive, you loose the best of the loop, which lies around Paso Huemul.
Did you consider other more self-contained short tours, such as Paso del Cuadrado and Glaciar Marconi? Of course, besides the classical Miradors...
alexh234 9 déc. 2017
It would be a gigantic help for me if you could answer two questions:
Whether I need to bring any special equipment for the Tirolesa.
Whether I need a permit
I have seen a bunch of different people saying different stuff and I am leaving for this trip in 2 days... not sure if I am going to be able to do the part around Paso Huemul or if I am going to have to stick to the front side.
Thanks in advance
etienne masson 9 déc. 2017
Hi Alex,
You need to register before you go and You will need to show a harness, map and 2 karabiber and the park entrance.
All this can be done the morning you are going and is free. If you don't have equipment, you can rent it in town but make sure you book it as early as possible. I had to book in 3 different shops because they did not have everything available.
They are also asking for a 20m rope I think, but could not really understand why. Frankly, it is not needed (I didn't have one).
Harness and karabiner will be needed on second and last day to cross the river.
This is a really good hike and as opposed to Cerro Torre and Fritz Roy, it is deserted. Really good one. Enjoy.
Alberto Pedrotti 16 déc. 2017
Thank you Etienne for your answer, which is far more up-to-date than I could have offered.
JuJu29 2 janv. 2018
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Una ruta estupenda pero el tiempo puede ser su enemigo!!
Y las tyrolesas son más difícil que lo que parecen!
La Bestia Parda 4 août 2020
Muy buena, gracias por compartir.
Julian Stagnaro 26 janv. 2021
Hola Alberto como es la caminata sobre el glaciar? hay mucha grieta?
gracias
Alberto Pedrotti 27 janv. 2021
No nay grietas. Caminas solo en una region "muerta" del glaciar.